Padriac's in Vining offers beer,
a laid-back crowd & good tunes

The bar is nearly full now, filled with mostly neighborhood beer drinkers not willing to risk the drive to Midtown. And really no need, there’s enough right here to make them comfortable - good tunes, a laid-back crowd and sufficient beer menu. What else could you ask for on a lazy Saturday night?

Me, I’m the geek strategically positioned at the back table nibbling on a heaping pile of Lobster Nachos while sucking down a pint of ‘Boddie’. I’m happy as a pig in mud - my nachos are generously stocked with chunks of lobster topped with slightly spicy pico de gallo, just the way I like it. All brought together with a thin liquid cheese drizzle and judicious scattering of black beans.

Turkey scaloppini taking up space on a restaurant menu is a rare sight. Something we need to see more of, in my opinion. That’s why at Padriac’s I can’t pass up the Parmesan Crusted Turkey Scaloppine with wild mushroom Isreali couscous. Growing up I found comfort in breaded turkey cutlets served with Velveeta Mac & Cheese. In fact, it was my favorite home cooked meal as a child. Nothing fancy, just thin, lean strips of pan-fried turkey helped along by Italian flavored breadcrumbs and plenty of olive oil.

At Padriac’s it arrives piping hot, as comfort foods often do. The couscous works well with the turkey, but admittedly, and at risk of offending some, the child in me pathetically desires creamy Velveeta oozing over macaroni shells.

Don’t let yourself get too carried away after one, or even two passable dishes here. I’ve been burned too many times trying to venture my way around this menu. Pork Tenderloin with creamy polenta might look tempting on the menu but the meat chews like a leathery boot. Biting into a burger can be much like getting your teeth kicked into the curb. My last visit yielded a woefully overcooked patty resting on shamelessly stale buns. The medium rare burger arrived within moments of being ordered scorched beyond a punishing medium well.

Pecan Crusted New Bedford Cod tastes fresh from the back of a freezer. Although, Chef Glenn’s crazy grits, a hearty jumble of stone ground grits, duck confit, crawfish, shrimp, onions and Gouda cheese, make it somewhat tolerable.

Kitchen weaknesses are prevalent throughout the entire menu, including desserts. Crème brulèe arrives a nice creamy texture, but the sugary top is soggy not crispy and crackly. It must have been blowtorched earlier that day then after spending several hours cooling in a humid fridge, served to me. Crème brulèe torched to order isn’t too much to ask?

Despite the many afflictions caused by the kitchen, I really wanna like this place. I searched the menu high and low for something to hang my hat on. However, there really isn’t much besides lobster nachos, turkey scaloppini and spicy Cajun mussels. But I also realize that’s okay - the lobster nachos by themselves are practically enough to feed two.

Besides, it’s hard to stay mad at this place. Just as my blood begins to boil - another pint arrives, the band starts off with a Tom Petty tune and the ditz with the newly acquired torpedoes starts modeling for every red-hot-blooded male with a cell phone camera. Honestly, the locals here are entertainment enough.

No, I wouldn’t recommend Padriac’s to anyone in search of a stellar ‘foodie’ experience. But stop by one Friday night - order a cold beer, kick your feet up and watch the neighborhood unwind.

(Tom Maicon covers Atlanta restaurants for www.atlantacuisine.com and features weekly picks. Contact Tom at tom@atlantacuisine.com)