REVIEWS
Restaurant Reviews
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JANUARY 2001
Run don't walk to Bistros eatery
by bo shurling
I hate to say this but Bistros should be the next restaurant you try.
I hate saying that because once word gets out about how good this place is I won't be able to get in. However, I'm willing to encourage you because this place deserves the business.
This praise doesn't come lightly. I have taken various friends and girlfriends with me when reviewing restaurants. This time a married couple, Claire and Marceau, who are very good friends and very well qualified to help review a restaurant where half of the menu is French Bistro fare. (The other half is American Bistro that's why the restaurant's name is plural.) Marceau is French and they are former restaurant owners.
Although the place wasn't crowded during our Wednesday night visit we started by relaxing at the small curved bar at the front of the restaurant, in the site which formerly house Ciboulette. Service was quick and friendly and there were several folks at the bar. It seemed like a great place to kick back.
The somewhat small dining room is sort of divided into three areas. Customers can sit at the curved bar area with a view of the kitchen while eating or waiting for their table. There is a row of tables that is separated from the back of the dining room by columns and partial walls. The walls are a mustard color. One nice touch to the decor is that lights are turned upward giving the room a more intimate feel. The one negative to the restaurant is the bench seating along the back of the restaurant. In such a small space this is almost a necessity but too often this puts diners too close together.
Our waiter was well versed with the menu, made excellent suggestions, was very friendly. The down side was he said he was a fiend of the owners and he was helping out during his holiday visit to Atlanta. So you won't be able to ask for him.
It's best to go to Bistros with a group of friends that way you can sample each other's food. Every dish we had from appetizer to deserts was very good.
For starters we ordered mussels covered with garlic and herbs, the roasted goat cheese salad and the tart filled with caramelized onions and goat cheese custard. We were very happy with our starters. There was just enough garlic on the mussels for flavor but it was not overpowering. The goat cheese in the salad was a little stronger flavor than the goat cheese custard in the tart. All three are worth reordering.
The bartender and the waiter said the foie gras was also very good. Unfortunately, they were out of it during our visit.
Crab cakes served with Cajun mustard sauce; ravioli with pork sausage and topped with mushroom sauce; and shrimp and scallops pan seared on basil relish are among the other appetizers. Appetizers cast from $5.50 to $15.
Marceau indicated that the French dishes were very authentic and that he had not been able to find the blanquette de veau (braised shank, mushroom and pearl onions, and white cream sauce served over fresh pasta) in other Atlanta restaurants. That is the dish he ordered for his entree. He gave it the highest seal of approval by saying the dish was as good as his mother made.
Claire liked the rack of lamb special served in a veal reduction with Dijon mustard and potatoes she ordered. The sauce was flavorful but not to heavy.
I opted for the roasted bourbon cured double pork chop with caramelized shallots topped with a bourbon glaze and served with apple bread pudding. The bread pudding was a little unusual but perfect for this dish because it soaked up the excellent bourbon sauce. This heavy sauce was a big plus to the flavor of the dish.
Although entrees range from $15 to $20 it is money well spent. The meat used in all of our entrees was very tender. All of the food and sauces had a flavor that indicated that good quality ingredients were used. There didn't seem to be any cost cutting going on in the kitchen. Portions are also a good size. It's not those little fru-fru sizes best suited for birds or waifish model types.
I would recommend any of the three entrees we tried. Other entree choices include pan seared scallops with braised Belgian endives with a lemon beurre blanc; pan roasted duck, a New York Strip; medallions of sauteed sea bass on parppadelle pasta; filet of snapper encrusted with Thai basil pesto on garlic spinach with coconut milk and yellow bell pepper sauce; and hot smoked salmon served on couscous salad with a smoked mushroom sauce.
For dessert we had the chocolate dome served on a white coffee anglaise with kahlua syrup, aptly described by the chef as this chocolate, sexy thing (actually a chocolate truffle), creme brulee, and the Arlequin of two chocolates which was layered white and dark chocolate mousse served with a flower basket cookie. Again there were no disappointments with any of our selections. The dome was thick and decadent. The brulee was tasty with just the right creamy consistency. The white and dark chocolate mousses was a great combination of flavors.
Profiteroles, a seasonal fruit tart and a mini skillet apple pie are the other desserts served here. The pie is $6.50. The others are $6.
We decided to have an after dinner drink at the bar. It was like we didn't want to leave the place. Some of that can be attributed to Bistros. Some of that is attributed to how much we enjoy each other's company.
Although there were open tables in the restaurant, several people were gathered at the bar eating and having drinks. I think kudos should be given to the bartender for creating a welcome feeling at the bar. It's the kind of place where people from different groups interact. There was no pretentiousness here. That comfortable attitude at the bar was heightened when the bartender bought a round of holiday shots for customers.
It was the perfect end to what is the closest to the perfect meal that I have had in a long time.
I'll return soon because I want to see if the rest of the menu compares to what we had during our visit.
FEBRUARY 2001
The new Meritage is a 'friendly' find
by wade bryant
Chef/proprietor Patrick Kelly and manager/proprietor Christian Favalli have done an outstanding job with their new venture, Meritage, on Piedmont Road in Buckhead.
Opening in an old house that formerly housed Bacchanalia, the two have transformed the interior and brought the structure into 2001 with a more contemporary feel but have managed to retain the integrity of the older structure.
Meritage's walls have been covered in a subtle, brushed-silver paint. Hardwood floors run throughout and black wooden window treatments with deep red accents compliment overstuffed couches of the same color. Artwork placed throughout is appealing without being obtrusive and you may notice the menu states, "all art work created by local artists and is available with a minor financial transaction."
Particularly interesting are lightbox paintings created by Stacy Simmons hanging in the foyer and throughout. However, if you want a lightbox you have to get your own. These are the exception to the art that's for sale. The foyer lightboxes and prominent old staircase help create an inviting, relaxed atmosphere in this casual, fine-dining restaurant.
White table-clothed tables make up the 68 or so seating for Meritage. The restaurant is separated into two small rooms downstairs for more intimate dining. While promoting conversation among diners, the seating may seem crowded to some when filled. Although, when warmer weather arrives the courtyard-like patio out front will be available for up to 25 and there are also three private rooms upstairs which accommodate additional seating and are available for private parties and special occasions.
Our visit to Meritage was one of the friendliest dining experiences I've had in quite some time. It was on a cold, rainy night and within an hour of arriving the place had filled. We had called ahead for reservations and were seated right away. Both waitstaff and management were extremely cordial to each and every diner.
Our waiter Jack not only explained in detail many of the items on the menu, he made several educated suggestions on dinner as well as a wine selection. The name Meritage which was derived from wine that features many different flavors reflects the wine selection at Meritage as equally diverse.
Jack became more rushed as the tables filled but remained attentive and cordial throughout the evening.
Meritage's menu is described as New American cuisine and had a varied selection of dishes, although, it's our understanding the menu does change from time to time.
Meritage offers a portion of the menu called Petite Plates. Jack explained it as a palate-cleansing smaller portion to begin the meal before the appetizer. Petite Plates offerings were Salmon Tartare with sweet red onion creme fraiche & potato tuile ($4.50), caramelized mushroom, red onion and corn stack with tomatillo salsa ($3.95), duck spring roll with plum dipping sauce ($5.50) and Tomato, black pepper & basil bruschette ($2.95).
We chose the salmon tartar and the duck spring roll. It gave us a chance to try something we would not ordinarily get to order. It was the equivalent to about two bites each but the teasers were excellent. The salmon tartare and sweet red onion was definitely a palate-cleanser combined with the crisp homemade potato chip and the duck spring roll was a welcomed 'duck' surprise with the dipping sauce. Duck can often times be dry.
Under the appetizers category Meritage dishes include tempura shrimp with avocado, mango, cilantro salad & a lemon grass ponzu ($8.75), mussels steamed in a mild Thai curry broth ($7.95), seared chile crusted tuna with mango & red onion relish & citrus soy ginger vinaigrette ($9.95), spinach linguini with white clams & roasted garlic sauce ($7.25) and Moroccan chicken roll with quince puree ($5.50).
We decided on the mussels and tuna dishes. The mussels arrived in an oversized bowl and was an enormous serving. This dish could easily be an entree portion. The curry sauce was delicious, not at all overbearing, and made a wonderful dipping sauce for the variety of sourdough-type breads that are served at Meritage. The tuna was prepared perfectly and the soy ginger vinaigrette exaggerated the flavors.
Meritage offers soup and salads of classic Caesar ($6.50), endive & roasted beet salad with crumbled gorgonzola, walnuts & blood orange vinaigrette ($6.25), mixed field greens with a charred jalapeno & three vinegar vinaigrette ($5.50) and celery root soup with peekytoe crab & white truffle essence ($7.50). We were afraid there would be no room left for a main course so we passed on the soup and salad part of the meal.
For entrees we chose the grilled filet of beef with roasted potatoes, haricort vert salad veal jus & black truffle essence ($23.50) and the portabella 'Napoleon' layered with grilled red onion, spinach, and taleggio cheese with white truffle sauce ($15.75). The grilled filet was tender and cooked perfectly. Again, it was a large portion and the presentation of all the dishes was nice. The Napoleon was a creative dish made up of layers of the red onion, spinach and mushroom with the portabella giving it a meat-like texture. The cheese and white truffle sauce were excellent tastes for holding it all together with phyllo-type crust layers.
Other entree choices include oven roasted duck breast with a sweet potato gratin and natural jus ($17.95), pumpkin seed crusted sea scallops with grilled chili relleno & smoked pumpkin sauce ($22.25), pan seared Chilean sea bass with julienned vegetables, roasted tomato coulis & basil essence ($19.50), grilled chicken breast with black bean & roasted tomatillo flautas with chipotle salsa ($15.50), sauteed grouper with baby artichokes, roasted shallot & tomato confit in an artichoke broth ($18.50), grilled pepper crusted NY strip with pomme frites and spinach with a red zinfandel sauce ($19.95), seafood risotto with wild mushrooms & fresh herbs ($15.95), crab stuffed salmon wrapped in rice paper with stir fried bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, sweet bell peppers & a dashi broth ($18.95), cashew crusted shrimp with avocado basmati rice & masaman curry ($19.25) and braised lamb shank with Tuscan white beans, roasted peppers, spinach, tasso ham and red wine sauce ($18.50).
A dessert choice of Green Tea Brulee with blueberries ($6) was shared. The brulee was the consistancy of flan and had a not-too-sweet, pleasing taste. The blueberries added just the right sweet touch, a welcomed change from conventional cheesecake and chocolate desserts.
Other desset choices (all $6) included white chocolate pistachio dome with espress anglaise & griottine cherries; poached pear with medjool date & pecan strudel and cinnamon gelato; bittersweet chocolate & blood orange tart with cardamom ice cream and vanilla bean panna cotta in a pomegranate sauce.
Kelly and Favalli bring their youth and energy to their new venture but they also bring several combined years of experience.
Meritage has gotten off to a fresh start and is worth another visit if just to see what creative new dishes have been added to their New American menu.